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The Vinephile's Guide to Valparaiso, Chile:

The birthplace of Salvador Allende, beloved home to Pablo Neruda and site of the nation’s Parliament, Valparaíso (“Valpo” as the locals call it) possesses the extreme topography of San Francisco and the dirty chaos and slight danger of Southern Italian port cities like Napoli and Palermo, with a bit of the packageable beauty of the Amalfi Coast thrown in. Of course, it also has those idiosyncrasies and odd details that make it just Valpo and nowhere else. A city that pulsates, sometimes unattractively, with life, this working port ciudad brings to mind Maupaussant’s description of another port city, Marseille, France, which, “perspires in the sun like a beautiful girl who does not take good care of herself.”

Valpo is a packed in city, with houses that seem to spring from each other in a chaotic, overgrown architectural garden. Valparaíso, wrote Pablo Neruda, “es un montón, un racimo de casas locas” (it is a pile, a cluster of crazy houses.) It “throws its doors wide to the infinite sea, to its street cries, to the eyes of children.” And not only to the cries of the street, but also to those of its countless stray dogs, who languidly roam and rest on the sidewalks throughout the days. At night, however, their sorrows seem to come out in a symphony that starts with a lone howl, and becomes an echoing series of overlapping calls and answers, culminating in a mournful crescendo and then fading into the hour, only to return about an hour later, until the noise of the morning bustle drowns it out.

While certainly there are options for tourists, Valpo as a city does not bend over backward to please the visiting “gringos” (the only partly derogatory word for foreigners). Even in the high seasons, finding a tourist can become as difficult as finding a filter coffee, so it’s easy to get the real Valpo. The majority of the porteños, as they are known, do not speak English, yet they are, as a whole, exceedingly warm, welcoming and buona-viaggo-ing with kisses on both cheeks, even when not a word is exchanged. Tourists then, get the dual benefits of being welcomed into a real city; one that does not package itself as a commodity and hide its grime, and still remains open, friendly and accessible enough to get to know.

SOME HISTORY:

The first major seaport of Cape Horn, Valparaíso grew immensely during the California Gold Rush, when the port served as a stopover for the hordes of people traveling to the U.S.’s West Coast to seek their fortunes. A railroad connecting the port to Chile’s capitol, Santiago, caused the population to reach an impressive 100,000, which included notable numbers of European immigrants. In particular, immigrants came from England, Germany, and Italy, and their cultural impact remains embedded in the city. Today, Valparaíso is, if counted alone, Chile’s sixth largest city, with 280,000 inhabitants. When counted with the surrounding beach resorts of Viña del Mar and Reñaca, it can be inflated to be the third largest metropolitan area of the relatively small country.

ORIENTATION:

A vertically oriented metropolis, Valparaíso is organized by its hills (“cerros” in Spanish), which sprout up from plazas near the port. The number of these has been said to be between 42 or 46, depending on the source. Tourists are sure to be more comfortable on a few of these, as some possess more of an array of cultural and gastronomical offerings, and enough tourists and expatriates so that bad Spanish (or none at all) is not looked upon with incredulity.

Cerros to know and visit:

Artillerio: No reason to spend more than an hour up here, this could easily be nicknamed “souvenir hill,” as the overlook is set up with tables displaying an array of typical Valpo gifts, particularly a variety of reasonably priced Lapis Lazuli jewelry.

Concepcion and Alegre: The most “on the beaten path” hills, this adjacent pair are most non-local friendly, home to the hippest bars, most diverse restaurants, stylish hostels, and internet cafes with the fastest connections.

Carcel: Named after the former prison which rests upon it, now a space for art and circus performances, Carcel is in the beginnings of gentrification, the perfect mix of trendy and sleepy.

Bellavista: Site of Neruda’s beloved five-story La Providencia, Bellavista is the most residential of the bunch, quiet, sedate, and with a near-spiritual calm.

The other cerros are too many too name and characterize but rest assured, whichever one chooses, a breathtaking “mirador” (view) is guaranteed.

TRANSPORTATION:

Fifteen historic ascenseurs, at the cost of between 100 and 200 pesos (that’s around 20 to 40 cents) will give passengers a fast and rickety ride up the hill, sparing them achy legs and shin splints. (To be accurate, only one of these is a literal ascenseur, which is an indoor elevator. The rest are actually funiculars.) It is partially because of these lovingly restored oddities that Valparaíso was able to claim the honor of becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003. While ascenseurs are definitely tourist traps (an article in the local paper noted that “Gringos LOVE ascenceurs”),they are certainly cheap ones, and actually used more by grocery-carrying locals.

Other transportation options are plentiful; better than any nearly every city in the United States. Most buses can be jumped on without even looking at the destination; chances are, it'll take you to a centrally-located plaza. From here, once can hike the hills, or hop into one of the abundant collectivos waiting for riders. Extremely cheap, collectivos are shared cabs that drop each rider at his/her specified destination (assuming that person can relay it in castellano, the common term for Latin American Spanish). Depending on distance, collectivos cost between $250 and $500 a person, while buses are between $150 and $350, and will take passengers all the way to the bordering resort town, Viña del Mar.

HOSTELS:

It is not difficult to find reasonably priced lodging in Valpo; even some upscale hotels are affordable by American standards. Prices are slightly higher in peak season – January to March – but not really a notable amount. In more budget accommodations, the hot shower situation can be rather tricky, a tiresome process involving multiple knobs, a few matches, and a bit of dumb luck. At times, it almost seems better to cover that grimy layer of city soot with the next day’s and wait for return to the North American power shower. Generally though, the quality of hostels and bed and breakfasts is quite high, and the splurge for more luxurious lodging experiences hardly seems worth it, unless the pleasure of a long, hot shower trumps everything. (And, of course, sometimes it does).

Brighton B & B
Pasaje Atkinson 151 - 153
Cerro Concepción
Fono/Fax: (56 - 32) 22 35 13 / (56 - 32) 59 88 02
http://www.brighton.cl/

Perhaps the most recognizable house on Cerro Concepcion, this bright orange Victorian structure also boasts one of the city’s best locations, being perched upon a cliff reminiscent of that iconized in Hitchcock’s VERTIGO. A black-and-write tiled terrace overlooks the city, offering a gorgeous view and reasonably priced food and drink. The hotel itself contains only nine rooms, each with different amenities and views, so it is essential to book early. The fanciest – with a king sized bed, private bathroom, cable television, and bay view, is a splurge at $35,000 pesos (about $70 American dollars), but perhaps worth it. Double room with view to the bay: $35.294 (high season) - $33.613 (off-season). Double room with no view: $29.411 (high season) $ 25.210 (off-season) Single room: $25.210.

El Yo-Yo:
Avenida Ecuador 355,
Valparaíso – Chile
Fono (32) 591087
elyoyo355@hotmail.com
http://www.elyoyo.cl/

Just above the always-bustling Plaza Ecuador, on a street boasting the highest density of bars in the city, rests El Yo-Yo. Cheap, lively, and action-packed, this is the hostel for those in the know. Owned by a San Diego expat, its décor is as colorful as its backpackers, with red Jetsons-style pod chairs, records hung on the wall, and brightly colored comforters and curtains. A hearty breakfast, fast Internet connection, shared kitchen, laundry room, lounge with cable and DVD, and a lively atmosphere come with the price of the room. For additional pesos, salsa classes are offered. A claim of “Hot Showers 24/7” is highlighted on the website. Dorms are $4000, singles are $7000, doubles and triples are $5000. Special rates for groups.

“El Castillo”
867 Yerba Buena,
(then walk up stairs)
Cerro Bellavista
Phone – (32) 22 5451

A splendor of disheveled grandeur that reflects that of the city as a whole, the so-called “Castle” is just a two-minute stroll south of Neruda’s Providencia, a tiled marvel with a faded family crest upon its façade. Run by a friendly elderly woman (who will chat warmly in Spanish without taking notice of one’s comprehension level), it is a good place to plop your luggage down if staying for at least a week and want a more authentic Valpo living experience. The two balconies, one on each floor and facing separate directions, offer splendid views, and a crumbling courtyard, complete with mosaics and a non-working fountain, is a great place to sunbathe. “El Castillo” contains six rooms of various sizes, a shared bathroom, kitchen, and living room. Cost per week – double room is $25,000; triple room is $40,000.

Hostal Caracol
Hector Calvo 371
Cerro Bellavista
Valparaiso, Chile
Fono: 032 395817.

Caracol, on the other side of Bellavista, is nearer to the visual pleasures of the “Open Air Museum,” an impressive public art project of large outdoor murals painted by well-known South American artists. A renovated turn of the century house, it has been updated into a bright, modern hostel without destroying its original wood interiors and high ceilings. Amenities include a large communal kitchen where guests are offered complimentary breakfast, a well-stocked library, high-speed Internet, a travel desk, laundry, airport pickup, and even an outdoor area for summertime barbecues. Finally, not surprisingly in a city where canines often seem to outnumber humans, pets are acceptable. 7 bedroom mixed dorm -- $15 US Dollars; Double room - $23

FOOD AND DRINK:

The eating rituals of Chillenos are similar to those leisurely, food-obsessed countries of the Meditteranean. In Valpo, as all over Chile, dinner (cena) is eaten very late, most likely because the main midday meal, normally taken between one and two in the afternoon and consisting of an entrada (appetizer), main course, acompañada (side dish), and postre (dessert), is followed a few hours later by onces, an evening snack that resembles teatime in England. Even at 10 pm, most restaurants are only sparsely occupied, and it is not unusual for Chillenos to eat their final meal near midnight. Still, don’t make the mistake of trying to fit into this delayed eating schedule on Sundays or Mondays, as most restaurants are closed either all day, or much earlier than usual.

Service is laid back, to put it politely. Trendier, more “modern” restaurants try harder to mimic the efficient service we impatient North Americans have come to take for granted, but typically, inattentiveness and long waits – even for the silverware – should be expected. Those who don’t know castellano should bring a guide to food translations, because even when there is an English menu, many things are either inaccurately translated or simply have no English equivalent. Thus, it is very easy to end up with something unexpected on one’s plate.

ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES:

Bars, cafes, and restaurants will likely offer a variety of four Chilleno beers, sometimes along with imports like Heineken. The local staples are Kunstmann, a German-made Chilean beer with more “upper-crust” connotations, Escudo and Cristal, interchangeable “common man” brews, and Del Puerto, a syrupy cerveza made right in Valpo.

Chilean wines, as those vinophiles who keep up are surely aware, have of late become recognized on an international scale, elbowing their way into cellars formerly filled with French and Californian varieties. Concha y Toro and Gato Negro are everyday wines, abundant and cheap as soda. Certainly the wines range from vinegary and grimace-inducing to enchanting and incredible, but even the boxed wine sells in bottles in the States for $8 at the cheapest. In Chilleno bottillerios, $2 to $3 buys the same amount. Try wine of the Carmenere grape, a robust, rich red that does not grow in the Northern Hemisphere.

The fluorescent green pisco sour is the national Chilean drink, a blend of pisco (a brandy made from regional Muscat grapes), egg whites, lemon, and sugar. It is often presented in a narrow glass resembling a champagne flute and has a layer of sugar sprinkled around the rim. (For the larger-nosed imbiber, this combination of narrow glass and sugar-lined rim makes it hard to drink gracefully.) Pisco itself comes in various alcoholic strengths: regular (30° to 35°) is 60 to 70 proof, special (35° to 40°) is 70 to 80 proof, while Reserve (40° to 43°) is 80 to 86 proof.

BARS AND CAFES:

La Playa
Serrano 568
fono 32/594262

Opened in 1908, La Playa is a cavernous space near the port that possesses a palpable grittiness and authenticity; one can imagine sailors of yesteryear bathing each other in booze upon return after a long journey at sea. Though there is a British theme here – the walls are adorned with Britpop icons, and their music plays in the background, it maintains a local feel. The thirty foot wood bar is impressive, though not as much as the cheap prices and friendly service. On the weekends, crowds of revelers ascend, often to enjoy live music. Glasses of wine and beer start at $1000.

Café La Pergola –
Subida Almirante Montt 51

At the intersection of the plaza from which the pathways to Cerros Carcel and Alegre branch out in opposite directions, La Pergola is an unassuming, charming café. There are a few tables inside, where patrons can sip beverages hot and cold, alcoholic or caffeinated. Light snacks, deserts, and salads are on the carta, and artisanal souvenirs surround those who chat and chew. (They are for sale, but the prices seem to correspond to a higher class of clientele than do those of the menu items). In nice weather, outside seating is available in a courtyard out front, adjacent to a flower market and facing a hot dog stand with the somewhat disturbing moniker of Kanibal. Live music on weekends. Vinos are $1500 a glass, light fare between $1000 and $3000.

Café Paseo –
Plaza Anibal Pinto

To give your waistline a break from meat-heavy, five-course meals, try the European-style Café Paseo, which rests catty corner to that most authentic of Chilean cocinas, Cinzano. The three-story Paseo is adorned with small marble tables and gold-framed mirrors that are so ubiquitous in Parisian coffeehouses. The variety of coffee drinks, including decent cappuccinos and lattes, are especially welcome after days of pouring powdered Nescafe from packets into a mug of hot water, but it is the ice cream (helgado) concoctions that are the most enticing. Creamy milkshakes are $1950 while the massive banana split is $2950. Continental breakfast (for $3000) and traditional once (the Chilean post-lunch, pre-dinner “snack” of sandwich, tea, and juice) are available, as are nicely prepared salads, pizzas (around $2100), crepes ($1800 to $2350), desserts including waffles with assorted toppings ($2100 to $3100), and panqueques ($2950).

RESTAURANTS:

Cerro Concepcion, with its mixture of cosmopolitan yipster locals and tourists, is home many of the city’s best restaurants and some of its worst – overpriced tourist traps with breathtaking views but sub-mediocre food. Stop by Cafe Turri or La Colombina for a cocktail on the terrace, but move inward for some delectable dining options that are worth more than the pesos you’ll spend.

Café Vinilo (Vinyl) –
Alimirante Montte 448
Co Alegre
www.cafevinilo.cl
cafevinilo@tie.cl

As close to NYC hipster as Chile gets, Café Vinilo (named after “vinyl” records – hence the record covers that adorn the funkily decorated bathrooms) offers not only gustatory pleasures, but also visual ones; fine art and photography, a marble bar, beautiful tiled walls, and designer clothing by Maria Paz Bravo on sale. Young chef Gonzalo Lara founded Vinilo in 2001, and prepares a different set menu every night – an entrada, main course, and desert for $5500. Though the fare is excellent, it is the deserts that Lara is particularly known for, and chocophiles flock to Vinilo for huge slices of his decadent chocolate torte. As a local Chilleno noted, “They don’t do good deserts in Chile,” so Lara’s skills should not be overlooked by those with a sweet tooth. Or stop by for a pisco sour; they’re some of the best in town.

ALLEGRETTO
Pilcomayo 529
Cerro Concepcion
Valpo
32 968839
http://www.allegretto.cl/intro.html

Run by charming London native Ed Shelton and his Chilean wife, Allegretto is a cozy pasta and pizza place with a decidedly cheerful feel. Stone-oven baked pizzas have a light, thin crust with a variety of combinations of toppings. Concepcion, for example, has tuna, goat cheese, onions, capers, mushrooms, and the ubiquitous palmitos (hearts of palm.) Gnocchi is freshly made and delectable, and the ensalatas are good options for the dieting traveler.With shelves lined with locally produced food products for sale (from pastas to marmalades), books to read are scattered around, and ample light coming in through the windows, one could comfortable wile away the hours here. A vintage vinyl jukebox offers Americana classics, and occasionally, there is live music. Pizzas start at $3900 and feed two hungry people. Extra toppings are $400 to $500. Wine by the glass is$1000 and bottles are between $3500 and $5500.

OFF OF CONCEPCION:

Restoran Caruso
Soc. Comercial Luco Limitada
Rut 76.084.560-4
Av. Cumming 201
Cerro Carcel
Fono: 56-32 59 40 39
caruso@vtr.net

Co-owned by Javiera Luco, a Santiago born anthropologist, and a Peruvian partner, Caruso is a sleepy, acclaimed restaurant on a corner of Cerro Carcel. Luco and friends renovated an old soda water factor themselves, transforming the space into an airy, stylishly decorated dining room, with tasteful photographs and light wooden tables. Subtitling itself a “cucina del mar,” fresh fish is this restaurant’s raison d’etre, and the menu changes daily, based on both the chef’s inclination and what ended up in the fishermens’ nets. The wine list is superb and carefully selected from smaller vineyards, the food is not only amazing, but aesthetically pleasing, and the service is attentive. The most unique and environmentally-friendly feature – the large chalkboard menu-on-wheels, which the server brings to each table for perusal, stands in for the typical laminated fold-out menu. Look for the bright blue aquatic mural painted on the exterior.

CINZANO
Anibal Pinto Square 1182

Founded in 1896, Cinzano is a city landmark, a seasoned and wrinkled oldtimer of a restaurant, with every stain and dent serving as a mark of some layer of history. A large space, it consists of two areas – a long and narrow bar, most often populated by rugged yet vibrant old men, and a spacious dining room with a small stage, where salsa, tango, and other Latin dance music is played live on weekends. Cinzano, with its gritty, fading elegance, is that rare place that is a comfortable local hangout while not alienating tourists. Vibrant, loud, and popular, it gets packed on the weekends, when it offers entertainment. The food is reasonable, with a thick menu of very traditional Chilean fare. A full meal for two with a bottle of wine will run about $15,000 pesos, or $30 American dollars. Cinzano’s set lunch menu is also a good bargain at $3000 pesos, and hordes of local families tend to linger for a couple of hours over their heavy, 4-course meals. Though the food is spotty, but there is a 65% chance you’ll have something great, and, for the atmosphere, this risk is worth it.

MERCADO CENTRALE (various marisquerias)
Avenida Brasil
–
The best deal for a fresh fish lunch in town, the Central Mercado, a few minutes walk from Cerro Artillerio, is a disheveled old building with a staircase spiralling up four floors of restaurants and fish stands. Choosing which of the dozens of marisquerias (fish restaurants) at which to feast can be a daunting ordeal, for, like London’s Brick Lane or New York’s East 6th Street, each purveyor will aggressively beckon you their place, the “best deal in town.” Still, it is nearly impossible to make a false move, as all of these places are extremely cheap, with huge fresh lunches offered as a set menu costing $1500-$2500. Though exact food items depend on the day’s catch, more often than not, options include corvina, reiñata, congrio, and albacore fish, which can be prepared fried or “al la plancha.” Bread and ahi (chili) sauce will start the meal off, rice, potatoes or a mixed salad will accompany your pesce, and a bajaritivo (digestif) will help you wash it all away. Skip the ascenseur up the hill after lunch; you’ll need to walk this one off.